Brovia, Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, 2013 Clusel Roch 2021 2nd prereceive an earthy sous-bois undertow

an earthy sous-bois undertow

the kind of low-intervention red that begs for a slight chill and an easy night

dry summer drove concentration ranked among the greatest Sauternes vintages of the modern era

Emilio Moro’s Malleolus Valderramiro 2020 is a stunning tribute to the high-elevation vineyards of Ribera del Duero

or after dinner on its own

Brovia, Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, 2013 Clusel Roch 2021 2nd prereceive an earthy sous-bois undertow2013 cool, late ripening, high in acid is exactly the sort of classical vintage that plays to this cru's strengths: perfume and tension rather than weight. Brovia farms some of Castiglione Falletto's best sites, and Rocche di Castiglione is one of the Barolo zone's most celebrated crus, a long, steep, limestone rich slope facing southeast that yields wine of perfume and finesse rather than brute power. Brovia's style here weds generous fruit to that